Eight friends from Upper Valais, Lower Valais, and Fribourg. Two routes on Eggturm. One night at Chalet du Soldat. And a weather window that was just big enough.
Friday: Approach to Chalet du Soldat
Our climbing trip began on Friday afternoon with the drive up to Chli Sattel. There, we distributed ropes, quickdraws, and the rest of the gear among our backpacks and set off for Chalet du Soldat.
The approach with all the climbing gear took about 60 minutes. The Chalet du Soldat is located at 1752 meters directly beneath the limestone walls of the Gastlosen. This historic mountain hut offers sleeping accommodations and simple regional cuisine, making it a good starting point for tours in this part of the Gastlosen.
After the approach, we ate on the sunny terrace. It was warm, the evening light lingered, and the food was fantastic. A big compliment to the hut team as well. They were in a really good mood and had plenty of jokes ready.
Saturday: From the Chalet to Oberberg Pass
The next morning, we set off early towards Oberberg Pass. The weather forecast was clear: a storm was expected to sweep over the Gastlosen in the afternoon. Therefore, there was little time for long breaks or a late start.
The Oberberg Pass is located at 1824 meters between Waldeckspitze and Eggturm. From here, you can reach the north-facing entry points on Eggturm. The approach isn't particularly long, but it already leads through steeper alpine terrain. Below the wall, we split into two groups.
One group chose the combination of Tom Williams and Arête classique. The second group started on the significantly more difficult Gourmandise.
Tom Williams and Arête classique
Difficulty: 6a
Pitches: 5
Individual difficulties: 5c, 6a, 5c, 5a, 4a
Character: varied limestone climbing with an exposed, classic exit
The combination begins with the first two pitches of the Tom Williams. The first pitch, graded 5c, offers beautiful climbing on compact Gastlosen limestone. The second pitch, at 6a, is a bit more demanding and already requires more precise movements.
After that, the route switches to the upper part of the Arête classique. Over another pitch graded 5c, as well as two easier pitches at 5a and 4a, the line leads up to Eggturm.
The upper part is significantly more worn than the two pitches of Tom Williams. Nevertheless, the climbing remains rewarding. The route becomes increasingly exposed towards the top and opens up views across both sides of the Gastlosen. It combines well-protected, modern climbing in the lower part with the alpine character of the classic ridge route.
At the very top, the ridge narrows. In one place, you can switch from one side to the other with a small jump. It's not necessary though.
The combination is suitable for climbers who are confident at 6a and are looking for a short multi-pitch tour with a summit, views, and a bit of alpine ambiance. The upper part is technically easier but still requires concentration due to the terrain and the descent.
Gourmandise
Difficulty: 6c
Pitches: 3
Individual difficulties: 6c, 6b, 6a
Obligatory difficulty: approx. 5c
Character: steep, compact, and very well-protected climbing on the north face
The second group opted for the Gourmandise. With 6c, 6b, and 6a, it is significantly more demanding than the combination next to it. Thanks to the excellent protection, the most difficult sections can be technically eased if necessary. However, a skill level of approximately 5c should be mastered confidently.
The rock is compact, rough, and of the quality for which the Gastlosen is known. Although the route only has three pitches, it gives an astonishing sense of a large wall. The shady start, the steep flank, and the unobstructed view below your feet create a true north face atmosphere.
The Gourmandise is the more suitable choice for a climbing party looking for short, intense, and athletic multi-pitch climbing. It demands more strength and a higher technical reserve but is much better protected than the alpine environment might initially suggest.
Descent before the storm
While we were climbing, the weather remained constantly present. The clouds developed faster and made it clear that we didn't have unlimited time.
After exiting, we began abseiling down the Arête classique. We didn't have much time to spare. Below the ridge, the abseil was spectacular through the steep flank. Next to us were significantly more difficult routes in compact rock. Fixed quickdraws hung in some of them. The wall looked so good that we were already thinking about a next visit while abseiling.
We reached the base of the wall and started our way back. The last person had already abseiled in the rain, and then the weather finally changed.
Brief Tour Overview
Area: Gastlosen, Canton Fribourg
Destination: Eggturm
Starting point for climbing routes: Oberberg Pass, 1824 m
Accommodation: Chalet du Soldat, 1752 m
Approach on Friday: approx. 60 minutes from Chli Sattel
Route 1: Tom Williams with Arête classique, 6a, five pitches
Route 2: Gourmandise, 6c, three pitches, approx. 5c obligatory
Descent: Abseiling via the Arête classique and return through the flank
Character: north-facing multi-pitch climbing in compact limestone
Important: Before the tour, separately check the current topo, weather, condition of the abseil points, and required rope lengths.
What remains from this short trip is not just the climbing. It's the shared approach with heavy backpacks, the evening on the terrace, the early start, the trust within the climbing parties, and the decision not to waste time due to the weather.
Eight friends, two routes, a lot of "silly chatter" and "a good laugh," and a shared return to the base of the wall. A good day in the mountains doesn't need much more.
