Flax, a plant that has been used in textile production for centuries, is making an impressive return to Swiss agriculture thanks to SwissFlax. At HAE, we used the high-quality raw material from SwissFlax to produce the limited edition of our Alpine Flaxer Beanies . Dominik Füglistaller , Managing Director of SwissFlax , was available for an interview a few days ago to tell us more about his vision. Dominik's goal is to make flax sustainable and regional again - a vision that is closely aligned with HAE's values. Like HAE, SwissFlax is committed to sustainability and quality. In the interview, Dominik shares his experiences and provides insights into the challenges and opportunities that flax offers for the future of the textile industry.
How did you come up with the idea of reviving flax in Switzerland? Dominik Flüglistaller SwissFlax: This was during my agronomy studies. For my diploma thesis, I wanted to try something out and not focus on standard crops such as wheat, corn, barley or rapeseed, but decided on flax. I tested different varieties and seed rates. When the flax flowered in mid-June, I knew that this plant had potential.
What fascinates you about flax as a raw material?
Basically, it is the versatile uses, as the Latin name suggests: Linum usitatissimum (much usable flax). In other words, the fibers can be used for clothing, carpets, and cords; the shives (the woody part that accrues when the fibers are broken down) can be used as animal bedding or processed into pressed boards, for example, or the linseed can be used for human consumption.
Why would someone choose flax over other materials?
Because it is a natural material that has its history and origins here. The material is also breathable, antibacterial, extremely comfortable to wear and can also have a cooling effect. With a HAE beanie made of SwissFlax, you are sure to keep a cool head.
What is the process from flax cultivation to the finished product?
The flax is sown at the end of March or beginning of April. It flowers in June and is picked in July, then roasted and pressed into bales in August. The bales then have to "rest" for a while. The mechanical fiber extraction takes place in winter. The fibers then have to be carded and finally wet-spun. Only then do you have the linen yarn in your hands.
What are the environmental benefits of flax compared to cotton or synthetic materials?
It does not need to be watered and is very undemanding when it comes to nutrients. This means that we have been able to completely avoid nitrogen fertilization in recent years. We also only use one herbicide in production, meaning we produce according to IP-SUISSE guidelines. In comparison, around a third of the world's pesticides are used on cotton. It is also a renewable raw material, which cannot be said of synthetic materials.
What hurdles did you have to overcome to produce flax in Switzerland?
All the know-how had to be rebuilt and partners had to be found who would support us in the value chain up to the finished yarn. In addition, people in the flax industry were not used to the fact that we only wanted our material to be processed from the raw material to the finished yarn and did not want to make any compromises in terms of further processing and traceability.
The flax in the fields of SwissFlax
How do you see the future of flax in the textile industry?
I believe in great and diverse potential. Before the Second World War, we once had 200 hectares under cultivation in Switzerland. Today we are back at 7.5 hectares and produce around 3.5 tonnes of yarn. Flax/linen is currently very popular, particularly because of its cooling effect and its pleasant wearing comfort. Accordingly, I assume that demand will continue to rise and that we will certainly be able to expand our cultivation area to double figures in the future. Worldwide, things are really taking off here. The cultivation area in Europe has doubled in the last 10 years (today it is around 170,000 hectares).
Are there any upcoming innovations at SwissFlax that you can tell us about?
Yes, I can actually reveal this, namely that at the Federal Wrestling and Alpine Festival in Glarus in 2025, all wrestling trousers will again be made from raw materials from Switzerland. This has not been the case for the last 70 years. I am very pleased about that.
How important is it to you to work with local farmers?
In my opinion, that is the most important thing. First of all, as an agronomist, I am very close to the farmers. Then I think that at SwissFlax we have managed to ensure that our farmers are not just suppliers of raw materials, but that they are part of the company/GmbH. We have also achieved our first goal by paying the farmers an absolutely fair price and allowing flax to be a lucrative branch of the farm. Here, too, we have a special payment system, which in my opinion is unique in agriculture.
What does sustainability mean to you and how does it shape your company?
This is in the company's DNA. We don't make any decisions without thinking about sustainability. This is really included. In my view, the flax plant, as a local raw material, also brings sustainability. The plant doesn't need much input (crop protection, fertilizer, no irrigation), and as a flowering plant it also offers insects nectar and pollen and is good for biodiversity. The plucking loosens the soil again, and the roasting puts nutrients back into the soil. In addition, the plant is used to its full extent.
